African black soap has moved from West African markets to skincare shelves around the world. But with so many products using the name, it helps to know what the real thing is, where it comes from and what to look for on the label.
What is African black soap?
African black soap is a traditional cleanser from West Africa, made by hand from plant ashes and natural oils. In Nigeria it is known in Yoruba as ‘ose dudu’, which simply means ‘black soap’. For generations it has been a part of daily cleansing routines across the region.
What is it traditionally made of?
Traditional recipes use locally harvested plants such as plantain skins, cocoa pods, palm tree leaves and shea tree bark. These are dried and roasted into ash, then blended with oils such as palm oil, coconut oil or shea butter. The result is a soap with an earthy look and a natural scent.
How to spot the real thing
Because black soap is so popular, imitations are common. A few things to check before you buy:
- Colour. Natural black soap is usually brown or a dark greyish tone. A jet-black colour can mean the soap has been remoulded or dyed.
- Scent. Authentic black soap has a natural, earthy smell. A strong perfume is a sign that fragrance has been added.
- Ingredients. Look for a short, recognisable list, and avoid products that hide behind vague terms.
- Source. Brands that can tell you where their ingredients come from are usually the ones that care about quality.
A note on using black soap
Every skin type is different, and traditional black soap can feel drying for some people. It’s a good idea to patch test any new cleanser on a small area first, and to follow with a moisturiser or facial oil. If you have sensitive skin or a skin condition, check with a dermatologist before adding something new.
How African Body Works approaches it
African Body Works was founded by Christen Igberaese, a Nigerian American chemist, to bring African ingredients and age-old techniques into a modern routine. Every product is handcrafted in small batches and made without parabens, sulfates or fragrances. Our Authentic African Black Soap Foam Facial Cleanser is made for all skin types.